RecceSaboo to Khespang

Report of the Recce Trek from Saboo to Igoo

                                                By Rigzin Norboo (Adventure Ibex)

Day1: Saboo to Stakmo

As predicted by the Metrology Department, the weather for the first day of recce was bit cold, which for an ascent on a steep mountain trail is a blessing in many ways. Based on the information collected from a village person, there were 2 to 3 routes leading directly to Stakmo through the rocky terrain and few unnamed passes. The starting pint of our journey was recorded to be 34008.26N and 77040.28E near new stupa at Chhumikchan area. Basically, the area leads into two separate valleys, respectively the northern one and the southern. The northern valley compared to the southern -the one we took was in good condition. An hour of ascent leads to an unnamed pass with height of 4,213m asl. The trail also includes passage through Patsachan La (4,328m asl) at 34007.98N and 77040.36E after a period of 30 minutes. The victory ascent was celebrated with victory slogan, ‘Kiki soso lhar gyalo’ and cup of warm tea. The view of Stakmo village from the pass was very breathtaking and full of splendor.

After a good rest we started descending and meanwhile we figured that the route can easily be paved though at some places it could be a challenge. Around 40 mins later at 4,105 mts we reached a small rocky hill with very beautiful animal trail which we used almost until we reached the base.

A 6 hour walk took us to the base of the pass which was actually in as good shape. The path from there leads to oldest Gelukpa monastery in Ladakh.
At the village we were offered tea, food and accommodation by ajang Dorjey; our escort and ajang Wangtak of Jagopa to whom we are really grateful.
The later part of the day was spent discussing on our next days’ trail which eventually was planned to start from the village to Nang via Arzoo.

Day 2: Stakmo to Nang (ETA: 8 1⁄2 hrs)

As previous day the morning was bit cloudy but still good enough to walk. As mentioned the hosts were wonderful providing us very good breakfast and packed lunch for the trip. One of the members of ALTOA Dorje Angchuk Alpine Swift joined us in the morning as promised before.

Around at 9:00 am at an elevation of 3,700 mts we started from the village with mindset to climb these 3 passes including small one before Arzoo. From the Homstay of Ajang Wangtak of Jaopa we walked for around 30 mins before started to ascend towards the passes at N34o 06.114’ / E 077Degress 42.189’ at 3,702 mts. The weather was still favourable for us. The trail had some funny looking rocks some resembling animals and some broken bowl and donnuts. Our trail lead us to a narrow valley until we reached a small unnamed pass with little snow at 4,096 mts where we had a small tea break. The walk until here was around 2hrs.After the small tea break we continued walking north east side to ascend to the main pass Saserchan La at (4,196mts). After proper examining the descend trail with keeping in mind for in future to use it for ponies also we started from the right side initially for few minutes it was okay but then we found bit difficult and lots of work needed to be done to use it even for walking. We kept descending from this steep pass until we reached Arzoo and stopped for lunch.

Here we gathered some woods that were in plenty and started cooking our meal and Tea. We roughly had an hours break while cherishing the beauty of the valley. Acho Raru told us how beautiful it is if we go further upwards and also advised us the beautiful campsites.

After the lunch break we again started on the trail. After around 15 mins walk Acho Raru got a call from home asking for him to which he decided to depart from us and walked straight towards the highway to head back home. Now we were left with only 3 people.

We continued walking and begun ascending slowly. After a walk of 20 mins we reached a small hilly point and every after 20 to 30 mins we saw similar points with small and big (rocky structures). It wasn’t hard for us to find the old trail used by the people in the past time. We kept recording the coordinates and the elevation while ascending until we reached the pass known as Boomchan la at N 34o.03.957/ E 077o 44.111’ with an elevation of 4,194

mts.It took us around 2 1⁄2 hrs reached the summit where we stopped lunch and tea break. The view of the Nang village is breathtaking as the other passes we came from. After a short rest we started descending from the left ridge. Initial descend was little steep that needs to maintained after that it is all good and walk able comfortably. It took us around 1hrs to reach the village while enjoying the village view. At around 5:30pm we reached the host house named “Zeto kongma” where we received a warm welcome. After some rest the Goba and 2 members of the village offered us traditional Khadaks and asked if had any problem during our survey. One of the member told us that some years back they had some 2-3 people came from Leh promising them a good flow of tourist if they maintain proper Homestay facilities to which they got very excited and started making plans. When we were talking to them we saw how much they feel deceived when no body as promised by the people. Though it took us some moment to convince them that we an association of all the travel agencies in Leh and hold a good power, position and respect above all others. We told them this survey is not only of their need but our also as we are loosing hold on adventure tourism. The discussion was a quite long one. But in the end they were quite happy and well satisfied with the meeting. They even promised us to help in building the trail with some agreements. The meeting concluded with delicious dinner by the host and called it a day.

Day 3: Nang to Sakti (ETA: 5 hrs)

With the wakeup call around 7am and a hot glass of water a new say wad on the rise. The village and the adjacent mountains were all covered of nights’ snow. The journey initiated at around 9:30am and was worried over the weather. After the breakfast we departed from host home. We crossed the stream while following the small trail and to the rough road to reach the starting point where we checked the elevation that is at 3,717 mts

From this point we started ascending slowly; first through the valley for 15 mins and after a climb over a sloppy point we found clear trail though little covered with snow. The presence of the snow was increasing with the elevation. The landscape of the Nang village from appreciated thereafter from the hill.
The walk to the pass though seemed easy but it was like never ending. With wet boots and socks because of the snow we were equally the beautiful trail. After a walk of 3 long hours we reached the summit (4,647m asl) that lies at 34002.27N and 77047.37E. Our boots were wet and we were cold but luckily the Sun came out later we started descending. After a 15 mins walk we decided to stop for the lunch. The pack lunch was good, the bread was delicious so the omelets. While descending we witnessed the presence of a Golden eagle, Hares and a left over carcass of a yak on the way.

After a walk of more than an hour we reached down to the village. The trail ends near the Stupa. Just after crossing the small stream near the Stupa (there is a grassland) near the bridge where we laid down and rested for around 20 mins. The host of Sakti village came looking for us as he saw us coming down from the hill. He escorted us to his home where we were served hot coffee and butter tea. He also offered hot lunch .

Mr.Angchuk who was mandating for the election, as he was one of the Sarpanch candidate came back home and offered us the Khadaks expressed his gratitude for our effort and departed to continue his work at the village. We had a small talk about the project with Ajanglay the father of Angchuk and head of the family.

Day4: Sakti to Igoo Khaspang ETA 3hrs

It snowed for two consecutive days and since our host house was near the base of Wari la pass (4,050m asl) it receive more snow than rest of the village. We were served local breakfast after which we finalized with the trail – a choice between two routes.

The walk from Sakti village involve walk through the fields and streamside until we got to cross the bridge. The distance from our homestay to the trekking seemed too far and we were bit worried as there was a thick snow and walk would have been for at least 1hr but luckily were able to hitchhike to the point from where we commenced ascending to the pass. The trail was beautiful though it was covered in thick snow. We had our lunch enjoying the beauty of the landscape below.

The distance from the pass to Khaspang (4552m asl) was covered in 15 minutes. There we witnessed marvelous wildlife like Tibetan patridge and mountain Hares. After visiting the temple we were drove back to Leh by our driver.

The Recce was supposed to continue till ‘Shachukul’ but due to the bad weather we had to halt but we were fully intended to continue further.

Conclusion: To conclude, this destination has a potential to replace Markha valley. Since all the villages are located in the valley parallel to the Indus river, they cut the Leh-Manali national highway at ninety degree angle making it easy for a traveller to start and end the journey at any point of the trek during any emergency or willfully. Trail from Saboo to Nang needs serious maintenance or repair to make it an option with ponies. All the village people were very happy and showed willingness to help to repair the washed away trails. While this tour, we also found out that there are also some options to start and end at different point of the villages, which we will observe on our second visit.